'Ambassador' borscht in Manhattan: how a Ukrainian runs a legendary restaurant in New York

Dmitry Martsenyuk has been working as a chef for the iconic Veselka restaurant of Ukrainian cuisine in Manhattan for 7 years. How fate brought him here and what stars he met in the institution, the publication told with the BBC.

Veselka restaurant was founded in 1954. Dmitry studied international relations at a university in Kiev, but still opted for Ukrainian cuisine in Manhattan.

The menu of the Veselka restaurant has several options for borscht and 10 types of dumplings. For seven years the well-coordinated work of this institution has been directed by Dima Martsenyuk, a Ukrainian chef who received the title of “ambassador” of Ukrainian borscht to the United States from his colleague Yevhen Klopotenok.

Over the years of his work, he treated Sandra Bullock, Keanu Reeves, Macaulay Culkin, Daniel Craig and many other stars to pancakes and pancakes.

I can cook 24/7

The idea of ​​becoming a chef was not a conscious choice of profession. A student from Vinnitsa Dima Martsenyuk entered the Kiev University of Tourism, Economics and Law for international economic relations.

His classmate was Yevgeny Klopotenko, now a well-known Ukrainian culinary expert and chef. It so happened that later both international students changed their profession.

“My first steps in cooking were in the hostel. The first cooking experience was when I cooked rice. I poured a whole packet of rice into a saucepan, it boiled and increased in volume, and I took it out and took it out, ”recalls the current chef.

Then he learned to cook game, fish, pilaf and borscht. The girls from the hostel only silently envied him.

“Between finance and cooking, I chose the latter and I don’t regret a second. I can cook 24 hours a day. I have inspiration, good mood and strength for it, ”adds Dima.

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Despite the fact that Dima is now in New York, the best gastronomic memories are from childhood in Ukraine.

“I recently made baked potatoes, sauerkraut and herring. My memories carried me back to the time when I was 10, - Dima recalls. “And my grandmother also had a special omelet - grease, which was prepared with the addition of milk.”

And of course, borscht - it was delicious for both my mother and two grandmothers.

“Borsch is magical, and everyone gets their own,” says Dima.

Became a chef at my prom

For the first time in the USA, Dima Martsenyuk went as a student for the summer - to improve his English.

“I found a job in a summer camp in the kitchen and in three months I learned to cook for 250 people,” Dima recalls the events of twelve years ago.

When he managed to extend his visa, he decided to look for work in the East Village, a Ukrainian district in Manhattan. For another 30-50 years, 70% of local residents were Ukrainians. Now there are much fewer of them, but there are many Ukrainian institutions left here - a church, an institute, a school, a bank, a museum, the Ukrainian House, and the like.

There were no vacancies in the rating Ukrainian restaurant Veselka, but the American owner hired him. "What's the secret? He probably knew something and saw some potential in me, ”Dima is convinced.

At first he worked on a blank, in two years he could cover any position in a restaurant, and four years later he received documents and went to study at one of the best culinary schools in New York.

“At my graduation ceremony, I became a restaurant chef. And for seven years now I have been working as a chief, I manage all processes and a huge team, I have experience and connections. Our restaurant survived September 11, several floods and the coronavirus, ”says chef Dima.

The job of a chef gives a huge advantage - more free time when you can communicate with visitors or colleagues, create or improve new dishes.

In addition, Dima works for himself and his image as a private chef: “I do private parties, I can cook any cuisine in the world. This is my hobby and extra work. I develop myself and my brand. "

Hundreds of liters of borscht and thousands of dumplings

“The bestseller of our restaurant, perhaps 50% of the business, is dumplings. Every day we mold and sell 2-4 thousand dumplings, ”says Dima Martsenyuk.

In the United States, dumplings are served either boiled or deep-fried. There are seven flavors on the daily menu, with three more seasonal. Popular fillings include potatoes, meat, potatoes and cabbage with mushrooms, goat cheese and arugula, sweet ones with cottage cheese and cherries.

“The second place on the menu is borscht. It goes, perhaps, a lot for one restaurant - about 500-600 liters per week. I think we sell the most borscht in the world. There is lean, Christmas and cold borscht, ”says the Veselka chef.

They also serve stuffed cabbage rolls, pancakes, soups and even beets with horseradish instead of a side dish. True, Dima admits, American beets are not as spicy as they are made in Ukraine.

90% of the restaurant's customers are American. Ukrainians come 2-3% during the week and 7-8% at the weekend.

How Sandra Bullock ate potato pancakes

“Many films are shot in our restaurant. I asked myself: why do they come to us and rent a restaurant for fabulous money. We are not too central, not too touristy or historical. And then I realized that we are chosen because of our energy, history and delicious food, ”says chef Dima.

Last time they shot Ocean Eight with Sandra Bullock and Cate Blanchett.

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“There are three dishes on the table - pancakes with cottage cheese, pancakes and dumplings. According to the script, the heroine Bullock speaks and eats. There were dozens of takes, and in each she ate a piece of the dish. It so happened that while the final take was filmed, she ate a portion of potato pancakes, ”recalls Dima.

Local comedians and journalists are also frequent guests of the Veselka restaurant.

And on April 12, Dima Martsenyuk himself organized an international culinary event - Ambassadorskiy borscht. He gathered ambassadors, consuls and other officials from Ukraine, the United States and other countries to cook borscht together.

Open to new professions

“I do not promise that this is for life. 2020 showed everyone that bankers can be cooks and vice versa. I am open to new professions and knowledge. But for now I enjoy cooking, ”says Dima Martsenyuk.

He already has plans to open his own Ukrainian restaurant in New York, but more modern, "with a young soul."

According to him, opening a restaurant in New York is not a problem, there would be a desire and a concept. There are also investors who are ready to invest in this area, there are also their own savings.

“95% of my plans for the future are related to cuisine and restaurants,” says Dima.