Top New York Times Critical Restaurants in New York
'15.01.2020'
Source: nytimes.com
There are only three restaurants in New York that have been awarded four stars by restaurant critics. The New York Times.
For the first time, a restaurant in the Flatiron district received four stars in 2009 from Times critic Frank Bruni. He kept them after Danny Meyer sold Eleven Madison Park two years later to his chef Daniel Hamm and restaurateur Will Gidara.
“The restaurant tries its best to please with every meal it serves,” wrote Pete Wells in a 2015 review. "It succeeds so often that only the most determined grumblers can resist."
Mr. Hamm now runs the restaurant alone, without Hydara, whose share he bought back last year.
Soon after Jean-Georges Wongerichten opened his flagship at the Columbus Circle in 1997, Ruth Reichl gave him four stars. Mr. Wells returned in 2014 and found that the chef continues to innovate in his establishment.
“Jean-Georges glides like a Mercedes sedan, but Mr Wongerichten turns like a Formula 1 driver,” wrote Mr Wells in his review. "Consider the squab dish (young pigeon meat - Ed.) That just appeared on the menu." This dish, according to Wells, could be the most ordinary, if not for one peculiarity:
it is seasoned with a hot sauce made from real flowers. “A bright orange mix of lime, fresh red chili and nasturtium petals, it turns an already fiery squaw into what is probably the spicy dish ever served in a French restaurant.”
Le Bernardin received his first four stars from Brian Miller in 1986. Then the kitchen of the institution was headed by the chef Gilbert Le Cauz. Chef Eric Ripert took the post after the death of Mr. Le Koz in 1994, and in 1995 received a four-star review from Ruth Reichl.
The last time Mr. Wells took part in the 2012 review. Then he was delighted with how the black perch was prepared “with the addition of black garlic, pomegranate and lime, supporting the crisp skin and white flesh” of the fish. He was also impressed by a halibut dish surrounded by a “raspberry pool with beetroot sauce”.
Seafood is in the spotlight, although Ripert’s collaboration with Magui Le Cauz, his business partner and original restaurant owner (as well as Le Cosa's sister), is key to his success. Mr. Ripert calls her "the soul, spirit and boss of Le Bernardin."
